Paris. My top city. I really enjoy visiting Paris. There is so much to see. So many cool little streets to explore. Each neighbourhood is different. Food. Fashion. Books. Wine. Art. This city has the best of it all. I really wanted to visit Paris again after my first visit last January (at the end of our two months in Belgium), but wasn't sure when it would be possible again. When I heard how easy and fast it is to travel to Paris on the train and TGV, a seed was planted. But, I dithered. The trip would be expensive - should we do it?
Luckily, Marc reminded me that we only live once. Who knows where we'll be next year? So we should simply go for it. It didn't take much convincing. Booked the train and TGV and decided to get a nice hotel room for Thursday night. Marc made an excellent hotel choice and we stayed directly across from Gare du Nord - very convenient for our arrival and departure. If you find yourself planning a trip to Paris via the train/TGV, I recommend the Mercure hotel - decent price, good room, very friendly staff, prime location.
We hopped on a train in Aarschott at 11:30 and we were in Paris Gare du Nord at 1:35. Pretty fast. We took a couple trains to the Brussels-Midi train station and then transferred to the TGV. Can't believe how fast the TGV is. It took a little over an hour to travel from Brussels to Paris! Super comfy chairs and WiFi as well. Here are a couple pics of the TGV train in Gare du Nord.
Luckily for us, Marc has been to Paris quite a few times (he lived in Compiegne, France for a year) so he is an excellent travel guide and can easily navigate the metro. So arrived in Paris. First stop was the hotel which was directly across the street. Checked in, chilled out a bit to get our bearings and set out for the day with a "loose" agenda. The Gare du Nord station (exterior and one interior shot).
We decided to hop the metro to check out Centre Pompidou. This is a modern art gallery that sounds really intriguing. Our metro stop was at Les Halles (this is a shopping center) - a pretty impressive shopping center but also a very confusing shopping center. We wandered for quite a while until we could figure out how to get out of it! First thing we saw was a Flunch - this is the best place to eat in France - good food, cheap, with unlimited side dishes. We are big Flunch fans! Wandered around the Beaubourg neighbourhood and found Centre Pompidou - what a building. Modern it is. One frustrating aspect of the building is finding the entrance. We walked around the entire building until we found the entrance... And then we discovered the museum was closed - there was a one day civil servant strike on Thursday... Oh well, we still got some decent photos.
Marc suggested we walk over to the Samaritaine department store. This is a massive department store that is one of the oldest in Paris. You may have seen this store if you watched The Bourne Supremacy - Jason Bourne stood on the top of it and overlooked Pont Neuf. So this is what we wanted to do. But, the store is closed for renovation. Here is a pic of the store, a view of the Seine, and a couple of statues.
The last time we visited Paris, we visited the Notre Dame Cathedral. I just found this church to be stunningly beautiful and an oasis of calm. I really wanted to visit the church again. Partly to experience the power of the building and to go up the tower. So we walked across Pont Neuf and along the Seine River to get to the church. Because of the civil servant strike, we couldn't go up the tower. No worries - we sat down and simply soaked in the church. Due to the strike, museums were closed - so the church was rather busy. But it was still a most excellent experience.
By now we were feeling our feet and needed a nice place to rest our bodies. We walked to the Latin Quarter and found a smooth cafe that gave us nice views of the foot traffic. Settled in for a rather expensive tea, coke, and apple tart tatin (for Marc). Although it was a bit overpriced it was worth it for the experience and our patience. We really had nothing else planned for the day. So we flipped through our trusty guide book (thanks Jos!) and decided to go on a night boat cruise of the Seine River. First we stopped at Shakespeare and Company - perhaps one of the most famous English language book stores in Paris. You can buy new and secondhand books in this jam-packed bookstore. I love this store. I could spend hours in it browsing. Had a quick wander around and then walked over to the Seine to hop a boat cruise.
Wow - this was the highlight of the day. We loved it. The cruise was one hour long and we saw everything. It was amazing. Our cruise started at 6:30 - just in the early darkness. The monuments looked amazing and the commentary was excellent. For the first part of the cruise we sat on the top of the open boat and it was just awesome to see the monuments and feel the air. My trusty little camera isn't the best for night photography, but Marc managed to still get some good shots. If you are in Paris - definitely take a night boat cruise - you will not be disappointed.
Now we were hungry! One of the things I wanted to do in Paris was good out for a really good meal. Thanks to nytimes.com I found a review for a Moroccan restaurant called Le Souk. The review sounded quite impressive and the menu looked pretty good. The only thing was it wasn't easy to get to. But we knew there would be other restaurants nearby if Le Souk turned out not to be great. Well, this restaurant was fantastic. Definitely the best meal we've ever had. And that is saying something since we've eaten in a lot of restaurants! The service was outstanding. The food was incredible. Subtle flavors that just fit perfectly. We started with a pastilla with duck and a feta and pepper salad - perfect. For the main course we ordered a coucous with vegetables, chicken, beef, lamb, and mergues and we ordered a tagine of lamb, almonds, onion, and caramelized pear. Yes - it was as good as it sounds. The couscous was perfect - so fine that it literally melted on our tongues! So much food. So much good food. Oh and the bread was delicious - it had black olives in it. Anyway, this meal was fantastic. The desserts looked delicious but we were too full. I did have a mint tea - this is not like the mint tea we have at home - this was made with real mint leaves, pine nut, and a touch of sugar. Okay - I'm feeling hungry now - here are few pics.
Le Souk is the Marais neighbourhood. This is an eclectic neighbourhood. Great for wandering around. So many different types of restaurants, shops, clubs, etc. We stumbled upon this art gallery that is a full-on Obama supporter. So of course I had to take a picture!
It was pretty late for us (11ish) since we took our time at the restaurant and had a nice wander around, so we decided to get back to the hotel. We did stop in at Monoprix - this is a great grocery/all-purpose store - I love checking out grocery stores in whatever place we are in - bought some chestnut spread and a cool little re-usable bag (last of the big time spenders!). We had a great first day in Paris. The highlights of the day definitely were the boat cruise and the meal at Le Souk. We didn't really have a plan for Friday. Decided to see what time we got going and what the weather was like.
As per usual, I was awake at the crack of dawn. I left Marc sleeping and set out to discover the surrounding neighbourhoods. It was pretty early 7ish when I set out so not much was open. I wanted to visit a couple of markets but other than that, I just let my feet guide me. I wandered around for 2.5 hours. It was great. I got to see the city wake up and explored some cool little side streets, visited a couple of markets, made a stop at a bakery to pick up some breakfast treats. I found myself in La Republique so I took a picture of the famous statue.
We made another loose plan for the day. I really wanted to visit the famous food halls at Galleries Lafayette. Gallerie Lafayette is a very famous department store. It is actually three buildings. I'd read that the food halls were something else. So off we went. We came out from the metro and this is what we saw:
The Opera. What an amazing building. Can't really describe it. We walked to the Galleries Lafeyette and found our way to the food hall. Pretty impressive. But we weren't tempted to buy anything - we found it to be a bit overpriced. Marc did find something he likes:
Perhaps the first highlight of the day for me was the coffee shop at Galleries Lafayette. Super comfy leather couches. The best chai latte I've ever had and free WiFi for Marc. We chilled out here for a bit. I walked over to Printemps (another massive department store) for a quick wander around - I didn't stay long since it was darn hot in that building! So what to do next? We decided to wander around the neighbourhood and look for a Flunch. We really wanted to eat at Flunch! We had a hard time finding one - typically Flunch restaurants are not in touristy areas - they are in more "working class" or sections. Finally after much walking I decide to ask some people standing on the street - they directed us to the Flunch we saw on Friday at Les Halles. Perfect. Settled - hopped on the metro and got to Flunch for a much needed sit down and some food. Along the way we took a couple photos (if you look closely you can see Sacre Coeur):
We still had about 6 or 7 hours before our train so we decided since we were closeby to visit Centre Pompidou. We were in luck - the building was open. We went in for a wander around but we decided not to check out the exhibits. Since the museum was open we thought we'd go back to the Notre Dame Cathedral for a trip up the tower. Unfortunately, the tower was still closed. Darn!
I really wanted to visit the Luxembourg Garden. I'd read that this was a pretty amazing garden. Well, it is absolutely incredible. Definitely my most favorite outdoor space in Paris. In fact could be my most favorite outdoor space ever. The park is massive. There are chairs everywhere for people to sit out and relax. Even in the cooler weather there were people everywhere. Marc was a bit tired so he found a chair and I started walking and took many photos. Here are my impressions of the Luxembourg Garden. There was a lady selling roasted chestnuts - I had to try them - my new favorite treat - going to have to figure how to roast chestnuts at home on the stove.
Statues and more statues. The small park is only for children - the hedges are the perfect height for little kiddies. Came across a bunch of men playing chess. People were also playing tennis (nothing like outdoor tennis in January) - no pics of this.
As you can tell from the volume of photos, I really really like the Luxembourg Garden. Love it. Forgot to tell you about our crepes. Before we went to the Notre Dame Cathedral we stopped for some crepes on the street. Marc has simply a nutella crepe. I had nutella, banana, and coconut. Very tasty and well worth it. Sorry no photos - we were too busy eating!
The Luxembourg Garden is right on the edge of the St. Germain des Pres neighbourhood, so off we went to see what we could see. We stumbled upon an indoor covered market that is one of the oldest indoor markets in Paris. Pretty cool to walk around and take in the flavours. We found the St. Sulpice church. This church is famous for its appearance in the Da Vinci Code. I really like this church. It is so peaceful and it was much less busy than Notre Dame Cathedral. I didn't take any photos since it was quite dark inside. This was a super peaceful place to sit down and rest our bones.
St. Germain des Pres is a very posh neighbourhood. We wanted to stop at one of the famous cafes - but we decided 9 euros for a hot chocolate was a bit much. So Pierre Herme - the famous chocolate shop - thought about going in but the line-up convinced us otherwise!
So we had a few hours left in our great little trip. Marc suggested the Arc de Triomphe. We had been last year but we did not go up the inside of it. Since it was just getting dark, the views would be amazing. Made our way to the Champs-Elysees and walked up and under the Arc de Triomphe. Paid our euros and started up the long and twisty staircase - so twisty I started to feel a bit dizzy! The sort of half-way point is very cool - there are exhibits that detail the construction of the monument and its history. Here are a couple shots - exterior and interior.
We walked the rest of the way up to the top and were rewarded with the fantastic views of the city. Magical to see the city lit up. The number of cars rushing along was pretty impressive as well. Marc took a shot of the Eiffel Tower - it is hard to do the view justice.
Our time in Paris was coming to an end. Plan was to make our way back to the hotel, pick up our bag, grab some food and rest our bodies on the train. Well, I was a bit cold and needed a warm drink. Yes, I caved and stopped in at Starbucks. We had to walk farther than we remembered to get to Starbucks on the Champs-Elysee and then once inside I had to stand in line for over 20 minutes before ordering.... Sigh - but it was worth it. Our final meal in Paris was pretty simple but good - we stopped in at a Lebanese sandwich type shop across from Gare du Nord and had a couple of tasty sandwiches. We both got one last treat in the train station - I had a super hot chocolate from the Haagen-Dazs cafe and Marc had a pain au chocolat.
I must admit we were both pretty beat by the time we sat down on the TGV. We did a lot in our day and half in Paris. Lots of walking. But the fatigue was worth it. I have some great memories now of discovering new favorite places with Marc. My top highlights are the boat cruise on the Seine, supper at Le Souk, the perfect chai at Galleries Lafayette, Luxembourg Garden, St. Sulpice, and the top of the Arc de Triomphe. A wonderful trip and a great way to round out our time here in Belgium. As you may have noticed we did not shop at all. The only souvenir I bought was a Paris tea towel and the chestnut spread.
We made it back to Aarschott at 11:30 with no travel issues. The trusty super van was still where we left it. I was so tired I slept for most of the train ride and the 15 minute drive to Westmeerbeek.
A great trip. I'm super glad Marc convinced me to go. Hope this post gives you a taste of Paris. The city has so much to offer and there are so many ways to visit it that I think each person takes away something different. You'll notice we didn't go to the Louvre. We decided not to since we had been last time and we didn't have anything specific we wanted to see again.
We are flying home on Tuesday. Today we really just chilled out, did the group ride and went for dinner at the cafe here in town. Marc is racing tomorrow and then we'll come back to the house to watch the World Cyclo-Cross Champs on television. Monday will most likely be spent packing bikes and cramming all our stuff into our luggage!
See some of you next week. Thanks for reading.